Are you thinking about adopting a puppy?

If your answers are “Yes,” our adoption counselor will spend extra time with you to make sure you know what to expect and that we find the right match.

We want a safe home for your family and for your adopted pet. Over the years we have learned that some puppies and breeds may not be the best choice for families with small children.

That’s why our adoption counselor will ask you a lot of questions, so don’t be surprised. She/he may suggest an older dog or breed that is more likely to be good with children.

Some Things to Think About

Puppies have sharp teeth and nails. A playful puppy could easily nip or scratch your child. Ouch!

A puppy may chew on anything it finds, including your child’s favorite stuffed animal or sneaker.

A puppy will treat your child like a littermate. Some puppies play rough, jump, use their mouths in a friendly but sometimes painful way, and could knock your child over.

Is your child old enough to know that a puppy or dog does not want to be squeezed or tossed around like a stuffed toy?

Young children will need to be supervised at all times with a pet. A curious toddler will pull at an animal’s fur, limbs and ears. A puppy, dog, or even a cat may react with a quick bite before you can intervene. Having an older child around, or another responsible family member, will help but this won’t prevent all accidents.

We do not know the lineage of our rescued animals, so we can only guess if a dog is likely to be good with children.

Some breeds can be easily provoked to snap or react to defend its food. A dog like this would not be good with young children.

If you are a mom or dad who feels like there just isn’t enough time in the day for work, preparing meals, shopping, changing diapers, and taking care of all your family’s needs, now may not be the ideal time to adopt a puppy. We will always have plenty of pets who need a home when the time is right for you.

• www.pets911.com
• www.petswelcome.com
• www.peoplewithpets.com

Get a grip

A word about leashes

Please DO NOT use the “extend-a-leash”. Those are the leashes that allow your dogs to run ahead of you and then when needed you pull or retract the leash back. It is supposed to be a simple device. This type of leash has proven to be dangerous and therefore we ask that our adopters not use them.

Over time people have found that when they needed to retract the leash it simply did not work properly. This caused great harm to their dog because they could not get them in time, putting their pet in the line of danger.

Just recently a pet owner was walking their dogs down the street, both on an extend-a-leash, when a car backfired, scaring one of the dogs. When their dog tried to bolt the owner attempted to retract the leash, but to no avail. The leash tore and busted apart and the dog ran into the street, and sadly, was struck by a car.

So I implore you to please ONLY use a harness (small breed dogs) and a very sturdy leash for your dog. If you have two dogs you may find that using a double leash will make it easier for you when walking them together.  For larger breed dogs, use collar and sturdy leash (no harness for large breeds as they can get out of them easily).

Always be sure to check the clasp on leashes because over time, with the opening and closing of the clasps to hook onto the dog’s harness or collar, you will eventually see a gap in the closure, an indication that it no longer catches tightly. When you can no longer hear the clasp close or you see even a tiny gap starting, it is time to replace it. This is important because when you walk your dog you may suddenly see them walking ahead of you, their leash in your hand but they won’t be connected to it.

Harness vs. collar

A Harness gives you better overall control over the safety and protection of your dog (small breeds). Collars have been known to pull against the animal’s trachea, especially if your dog strains against the leash, acting something akin to a noose, basically choking the dog. Therefore we ONLY recommend using a harness for your dog.

With a harness the dog cannot easily escape if startled, such as by a loud noise (trust me I have seen small breed dogs wiggle out of collars and run into traffic). So, best to never even take the risk. Play it safe and just use a harness. A harness will afford you greater control and help keep your dog safe.

With larger breed dogs, okay to use collar and leash, just be sure collar cannot easily slip over the head.  We see alot of dog owners walking their medium and large breed dogs with collar having a large gap, meaning dog can easily slip out of the collar if startled.

Around the home

Bathing at home

Of course you’ll want to keep your pet clean and well groomed. Here are some things to keep in mind. Bathe your dog in natural products, such as those for sensitive skin or hypoallergenic. One never knows what skin allergies a dog has, or may contract, so best to err on the side of caution and use hypoallergenic products like oatmeal based dog shampoos.

BATHING IN THE KITCHEN SINK:

If you have a small dog and opt to bathe them in the kitchen sink BE SURE to place a rubber mat over each side of the basin, or use a baby bath placed in the sink. Pet owners and vets have recently advised us that this is ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT for small dogs. It seems that as the water drains it can generate enough suction to grab the little one’s paw and pull it through the small holes in the sink. Depending on strength of the suction this can be a horrific injury to your pet (meaning surgery and possible amputation of a toe). This very thing happened to a small dog belonging to my friend’s boss and I promised that I would make people aware of this potential danger.

If you bathe your pet in the bathtub I would suggest you place a mat on the floor and bring your dog out of tub before letting the water out, to avoid having a paw sucked into the drain.  ALWAYS be sure to stay by your dog when  they are in the tub, especially the small breeds, cannot allow water to get to high or too hot.

At the front door

Always use caution when opening your front door, especially during the Holidays. This is a time when most little dogs get away. It’s just in their nature to run and play and they can dart out so quickly that you don’t even see them in time. Then, when dogs get scared, they run and run and run. And little ones, “whew” once they are out it is so very hard to find them again.

Suggestion:  Put a doggy gate or dog pen by front door, which would allow you to open and close door for your and for guests to assure your dog won’t get out, this is especially the case with the smaller breeds as they can sneak out so quickly and nobody would even see them.  This is a good idea for all sizes and breeds of dogs as well because many dogs will dart and take off running, so for overall safety, best to use doggy gate or dog pen by front door.

Home appliances

ALWAYS CHECK WASHER/DRYER AND DISHWASHER BEFORE YOU TURN THEM ON TO BE SURE YOUR DOG HAS NOT JUMPED INSIDE!

With small breed dogs especially, always be sure to check your laundry basket before tossing something into the wash. You MUST be sure that your little one is not sleeping under the clothes that are in the basket or hamper. The same goes for the dryer, look inside the dryer before you put items in it to be sure your dog has not jumped in before you turn it on. Also be sure to check inside your refrigerator and dishwasher before closing them up.

Wires and cords

Though not something we generally think about, all the loose wires and cords around your home pose a potentially lethal threat to your pet– if chewed on they can electrocute your dog! If you have loose cords and wires around the home it is best to pull them up from the floor and tape them to the back of something that is higher up, or you can purchase plastic cord protectors from almost any home improvement or office supply store. This way your dog cannot chew through cords or wires that could ultimately electrocute them (to death!). Sadly, this happened to my friend’s older dog. He thought his dog’s chewing days were long over and he had purchased an oscillating fan. He was unaware that his dog had been chewing the cord on the back of the fan and he lost his dog due to electrocution. So I promised I would make people aware of this very important information.  If you see that you have old and frayed wires, you should have wiring replaced, both for you, as well overall safety of your dog.

Toxic Foods and plants

Many seemingly innocuous foods and plants can be harmful, even toxic, to animals. Please be sure to check out the ASPCA website for this very important information (www.aspca.net). There are so many human foods, fruits and vegetables that are toxic to dogs, so please check out their website. To give you an example: onions are deadly, so is chocolate, strawberries, raisins, and grapes.

Also, most recently we found out about how toxic potpourri is, so never have this where your dog may be able to get at it. Additionally, there are many toxic household and garden plants, so be sure to check this out on the ASPCA website as well.

Environmental hazards

Antifreeze

ANTIFREEZE: Antifreeze or Coolant is a death sentence to animals. Animals will drink it because the main ingredient (ethylene-glycol) is sweet tasting, but it is so dangerous and it is a horrific way for an animal to die. Ethylene-glycol is an extremely poisonous substance to animals and humans alike. So please NEVER EVER have this out in your yard or home and if you keep it in the garage, be SURE it is kept tightly sealed and out of reach from your pet.

Rat poison

RAT POISON\BAIT: These are generally in a black, odd shaped, hard plastic casing, with poisonous bait inside for the rats to eat then scurry off somewhere to die. DO NOT EVER have these around your yard, home or garage because what is inside is highly poisonous. So if a rat, or small squirrel was to eat the bait and your dog subsequently attacked that rat or squirrel, then they now have not only eaten an animal that possibly has rabies, but one filled with deadly poison as well. So stay away from these for sure!

Plastic bags

Plastic bags are insidiously a part of our society. Be it grocery bags, protective packaging, or dry cleaner bags. Please dispose of these in a safe place such as a trash bin or storage container that closes very tightly. A dog, just as a child, can suffocate if they play in these bags.

In the Kitchen, Yard and Garage

Bread (twistie ties and plastic pieces)

Both of these objects can cut the intestinal tract, surgery and even death due to this.  Twistie ties that you place at end of bread can entangle itself in the intestinal tract and the plastic piece that you put at end of bread, when swallowed will slowly move through the intestinal tract and the sharp edges can cut as it passes through, which would cause leakage, infection, surgery, possible death.  VERY IMPORTANT to keep these objects away from anywhere your dog(s) could possible get ahold of them.

SHARP OBJECTS/OVEN/STOVE/BBQ

Remove any sharp objects like gardening tools, saws, drills, BBQ forks, knives, basically anything sharp. Such items should be kept in a secure area, up off the floor or ground and out of reach. If you have a large breed dog and keep them in the kitchen area while you are at work or out for awhile, it is very important that you remove all knives from the countertops and assure that they would not be able to accidently turn on the stove or oven.

It is also a good idea to baby proof all cabinets. Dogs, just like the curious little kids they are, get into all sorts of things when they get bored. Since most cleaning products contain toxic ingredients, nearly everyone has something poisonous in their cabinets.

About balconies

If you have a balcony please be sure that your dog is not out there unattended. If you happen to live in an apartment with a balcony, always be sure that there is nothing against the railing or wall that would allow your dog to jump up and over the side. Also, be careful with potted plants as dogs can get up on those to jump over walls as well, and they don’t always know there is nothing on the other side. Dogs just see a wall and may hear or smell something on the other side they want to get at, not knowing that there is a huge drop to the ground below. Although most cats survive such falls, very few dogs ever do (A drop like that is not recommended for cats either, balconies can be dangerous for them too).

Also, if you have wrought iron type railing around your balcony, then you need to obtain some type of thick wire mesh to place all the way around, leaving no gaps. Make sure the mesh is flush with the balcony floor and that it is at least 4ft in height. This will help ensure that your dog cannot poke it’s head between the railing, trying to see or get at something and then fall off the balcony. It would be best to put metal mesh into place right away when you have a balcony.

In the yard

Fences and gates

Whether you’re at your house or that of people you are visiting, always walk the perimeters of any yard where your dog will be playing, assuring there are no spaces under gates or fences through which your dog, out of curiosity, could crawl under or in between and take off. Also, check side gates to be sure there are no gaps under them and if there are, then lay your dog on its side to see if they can fit under it. More importantly, if there is no cement under the side gates, then you should purchase pavers to remedy this. Just measure the width of the opening under the gate and advise the clerk at your local Home & Garden store that you need pavers to keep your dog from digging out from under the side gates. Be sure to also check the edges of the side gates to be sure the gaps are narrow enough that your dog cannot get out.

If your home, or the home you are visiting, has wrought iron gates, be certain that the gaps between each railing are small enough to prevent your dog from squeezing through. (Wrought iron gates are the most frequent reason why so many thin or small to medium sized dogs go missing).

Keep it locked

ALWAYS KEEP A LOCK ON GATE AND KEEP IT LOCKED. Most dogs go missing because gardeners leave gates open, gas company employees leave gates open, kids come by and unlatch gates for the fun of it and the worst scenario of all are the dog thefts. If a dog thief takes your dog you may never get them back! Stolen dogs are usually sold to the highest bidders, and they usually do not end up in good places. This is so important so I did not want to miss putting it in here. Just having locks on your gates to make it appear like they are locked will not deter a dog thief.  These unscrupulous people already know that pet owners do this.

While watching CNN one night I saw an interview with a dog thief who shared all the secrets of stealing dogs and even he was amazed at how many people just lay a lock on their gate, but never actually have them locked. This made it so easy for him to just steal peoples’ pets and run.

PLEASE ALWAYS BE SURE YOUR GATES ARE LOCKED, not only to protect your pet, but as well to protect your family.

Pool Safety and your Dog

Always teach your dog how to swim and how to get out of the pool.  It is a good idea to place a triangle shaped object on tile near the stairs and teach your dog to go to that triangle to get out.  The reason for the triangle is because if a dog falls into pool, all they see is water and tile, no identifying marks, can get confusing, especially if a dog is not pool saavy.   It is also a good idea to have a rope that goes across the middle of pool, should your dog fall into pool when you are not at home and become disoriented, at least with a rope across the pool dog would have something to hang onto.  There is also an alarm that can be purchased that you set for a certain weight of dog and should your dog fall in, it will set off the alarm, based on weight of dog and what you set alarm at.  If a dog is afraid of the water, afraid of the pool, then it is highly suggested that owner put up gate around the pool to keep them safe, just as one would do for a child.

Coyotes and doggy doors

Whether you get a house or own a house, or are visiting at someone else’s home, these are things to really watch out for and be careful of.

COYOTES: I cannot stress enough how VERY IMPORTANT it is that from DUSK to DAWN to never allow your dog to roam free in the backyard. Even if you have a doggy door for the daytime, at night, from dusk to dawn, close up that doggy door!  Most recently we have even heard of dogs being grabbed during the daytime hours, so we encourage all dog owners of small and medium size dogs to NEVER allow them free access to backyard, accompany them with leash or purchase a very sturdy dog run (four sided) and have in yard for when you are out there, this allows them a bit of freedom off a leash, but at the same time keeps them protected.

Coyotes are a huge threat to dogs. It used to be we only had to worry about telling people who live in the hills to never leave their dog alone in the yard without someone there. Now however, the coyotes are coming down into homes North of Ventura Blvd and into neighborhoods all over. It is always best to do things on the cautious side. This means that from dusk to dawn never allow your dog to be outside. If you need to let your dog out at night to go potty, first turn on a backyard light, then with leash attached, walk outside with the dog in your arms. If no coyotes are present you can put your dog down (with leash in hand) to go potty. Then pick your dog up and carry them back into the house.

DID YOU KNOW THAT COYOTES CAN JUMP OVER WALLS OR FENCES EVEN AS TALL AS 12 FEET!

Coyotes are now being seen in areas we never saw them before and even if people say they never see any coyotes it doesn’t mean they are not there, they are smart and cunning. So PLEASE, even if you have had dogs a long time and have never encountered any predatory animals, KNOW THAT YOU ARE JUST LUCKY! In the meantime, protect your dogs and bring them in at night and keep that doggy door closed up until the morning, but again NEVER allow a small or medium breed dog to have free roam of the backyard unattended.

Fertilizing your yard

Always use NON-TOXIC fertilizer for your lawn. This is safer for you and your pets. Most name brand fertilizing products contain too many toxic agents that can make your pet very sick and even worse. For information on non-toxic fertilizers try doing a Google search or log onto www.kinder4rescue.org (the front page of her website lists some non-toxic fertilizers).

Small decorative rocks

The small decorative rocks found in many gardens and yards can be dangerous for dogs. Dogs like to play with them, bite on them, and some have even wound up choking to death on them. These small rocks can easily get lodged in the dog’s throat and if no one is watching or nobody is home at the time the consequences could be dire. So NEVER use the small decorative rocks, best to be on the safe side. Instead you can find a lot of beautiful large rocks for decorating. These are much safer and they look real nice too.

Go for a walk?

A day at the beach

A fun day at the beach with your dog can end in tragedy if simple precautions are neglected. Various scenarios have been the demise of many a beloved pet at the end of what was otherwise an enjoyable outing. Cars on beach roads like PCH have hit dogs because everyone was so excited they didn’t bother to leash their dog. Owners either didn’t keep an eye on traffic or their dog, allowing it way too much freedom to roam into traffic. Heading back to the car at the end of the day, with everyone tired, they didn’t have their dog on a leash, or the leash was on the dog but the owner, too busy packing up the car, was not holding it. Their dog then goes to the traffic side of the vehicle to play and gets hit by a passing car. So PLEASE be so very careful when going to and leaving the beach, especially along PCH where traffic is very fast and close to the parked cars. Better yet, use the available parking lots, even if it costs a couple of bucks. Your pet’s life is worth it. Following these simple guidelines will help keep your pet out of harms way:

When arriving at the beach, HAVE YOUR DOG ON A LEASH BEFORE GETTING OUT OF YOUR VEHICLE!

During your stay always keep your dog close to you (some beaches do allow for a dog to run off leash, but before doing that you MUST KNOW YOUR DOG)

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When leaving the beach, HAVE YOUR DOG ON A LEASH BEFORE HEADING TO YOUR VEHICLE.

DO NOT UNLEASH YOUR DOG UNTIL EVERYONE IS IN THE VEHICLE AND THE DOORS ARE CLOSED.

Dog parks

If you have a small to medium size dog, it is best to only allow them into the small dog area to play. Never take your small dog into the big dog area. Too many people have been throwing unfixed dogs, or aggressive dogs into this area and leaving them just for the fun of it. Many small and medium size dogs have gotten hurt, or even worse, due to this. The parks are trying to keep a better eye on things, but there just isn’t enough help out there to keep it under control. A doggy park  in Van Nuys has had many tragedies happen, from aggressive dog attacks to a lady that picked up someone’s dog and walked out with it while the owner was distracted. Luckily that dog was found and lady prosecuted because she had bragged to people about what she had done. During one particular dog attack that occurred, the lady’s dog was killed. Fortunately someone got the license number of the truck that dumped the dog at park, so the guy was picked up and prosecuted.

The dog parks are doing their best to curtail these tragedies, but as a responsible dog owner you need to stay close to your dog, watch the body language of the dogs they interact with, and be ready to intervene should a situation arise where you need to break it up before it becomes serious.  www.VetPetHealth.com

Also, dog parks carry many diseases because so many go potty on the grounds, some even bring sick dogs to play, or dogs that are not vaccinated and are carriers of diseases, truly best not to go to doggy park, instead if you have friends with small or medium size dogs, best to arrange playdates.

Hiking trails

ALWAYS be sure to keep dog on a leash, DO NOT let them wander off into the bushes, and keep your dog close to you. It is worth noting that in many of the mountainous dog parks there is a huge rattlesnake problem. There is also an increasing problem with coyotes, which are so smart that they use their babies and their females in heat to lure dogs into the bushes where a pack is waiting to attack. So please never allow your dog to poke around the bushes on hiking trails, and keep your dog on the trail with you and near you at all times. Small breed dogs, although on leash and next to their owner, have been grabbed by coyotes, owner being dragged until leash broke or owner could no longer hand on, such a tragedy that should not occur.

Recently it has been discovered that someone has placing poisoned dog food in the bushes. I myself am aware of two dogs that poked their noses into the bushes, ate the poisoned food so fast that owners did not even see it happen and now their dogs are no longer with. So again, please be very careful.

SOMETHING ELSE TO KEEP IN MIND: If someone tells you “oh, don’t worry, my dog is friendly”, tread cautiously. Too many dogs have gotten hurt and all because the person said their dog was friendly, when in fact it was not. A good rule of thumb to follow: If you don’t know the person and/or you don’t know the dog, then best to not introduce your dog to theirs. Play it safe, as it could be your dog’s life at stake.

Out and about

Escalators and elevators

Always pick up your dog when getting on or off of an escalator or elevator. Serious injuries with huge medical bills have occurred from accidents when dogs were not picked up and they froze on the escalators, or their leash got caught in elevator doors. Some dogs have died as the result serious injury.

Never leave dogs in cars

You should never leave your dog in your car while you run an errand, not even for a moment. Dog thefts are on the rise, and no dog, small or large, sweet or mean, is safe. Dog thieves know all the tricks and they work fast. Another reason is that even if the temperature outside is 78 degrees, temperatures inside the car can quickly rise to over 100 degrees within minutes. At this temperature a dog can rapidly go brain dead and die. Under the law this is considered animal cruelty, and can incur heavy fines and jail time. If you cannot take your dog into a place with you then leave them safely at home.

All tied up

Never leave your dog tied up or off leash outside any coffee houses or stores, or wherever. Again, dog thefts are on the rise. I hear about this every single day and it breaks my heart. Please, never ever leave your dog tied up outside anyplace even if you are visiting even real fast. It truly only takes a minute for you to turn away and your dog to be gone. To a dog thief, your pet is just a product to be sold for profit, to the highest bidder. And the harsh reality is that your dog will rarely end up in a good place. Once a dog thief gets a hold of your dog chances are you will never get them back.

Strangers and your dog

Never let a complete stranger hold your dog, just say that your dog has been known to nip, so you’d rather not. Dog thieves work together using this angle by having one person ask to hold your dog while the other waits in a car for them to grab your dog and run.

What a world we live in but, as a rescuer, I hear all the crazy stories so at least I am able to share them with you and warn you about these tactics.

Drive-thru car washes

NEVER take your dog through one of the drive through car washes. Thus far we have only heard of very bad experiences for dogs. These drive through car washes frighten the dogs beyond belief, so please never take your dog through one of these.

Travel safety

The only way to fly

When traveling by air small breed dogs or puppies can be taken as a carry-on, which incidentally is also the safest way for them to travel on an airplane. Just call airline ahead of time to be sure of their carrier requirements. Also, always have your dog checked by your vet before going on a flight and again upon your return. Your vet may recommend a light sedative to ease your dog’s anxiety. It would be a good idea to see your vet 1 week prior to traveling.

When traveling with larger breed dogs, check out the tips on the ASPCA website and also we recommend a vet visit one week prior to any traveling to be sure your dog(s) are up to the conditions of traveling.

If you stay at a pet friendly hotel, be sure to take your dog with you whenever you can. If you have to leave them alone in the hotel room, you MUST keep them in their carrier. DO NOT allow them to run free in a hotel room because if a maid or some other hotel employee opens the door, your dog could be scared and run right out the door. And trying to find a scared dog lost in a strange city… well it’s almost impossible.

Car safety

We all know that dogs LOVE to stick their heads out the car window, but it can be dangerous to allow them to do this. Just recently, near my apartment building, a gal made a quick turn and her dog went flying out the car and into traffic. Not good! So if you want your dog to feel the breeze on their face while driving then it would be better to get a car harness so that you can put a seat belt around them and have the window down and you will know they are safe. This can be done in the front or back seat. These harnesses that attach to seat belts are made for all small, medium and large breed dogs.

If you are a passenger and holding your dog on your lap just be sure you have the dog on a leash and that you wrap it securely around your wrist, only allowing your dog enough slack to move from your lap to the window. In this way your dog gets to feel the breeze and you feel secure knowing they will be safe from falling or leaping out the window. Also, sometimes when one dog sees another in a car or walking down the street they tend to want to play (or fight), so they try to jump out the car. But as long as you have your dog harnessed into the car, or on your lap (as a passenger, not driver) with their shortened leash securely around your wrist, then you should be fine and won’t have to worry.

Also, remember to have plenty of water on hand as dogs overheat easily and you must always be prepared should the a/c in your car go out.

Toys and treats

Toys to avoid

Do not get what is called a pimple ball (it’s that ball with all these little rubber spikes sticking out of it). This ball should have been taken off of ALL shelves, but sometimes recalls are missed, therefore I want to be sure to make you aware of it. This ball does not have holes on both ends, so when a dog plays with it if they can get their tongue inside, with no airflow, their tongue can get stuck and swell. There have been reported cases of dogs playing with this toy, when no one was at home to check on them, when their tongue would get stuck inside. After a while their tongue would swell up and required surgery. Stay away from this ball!

Steer clear of any toys with little bells on or in them as the bells could be swallowed, or choked on.

Plastic toys should also be avoided as the dogs can chew and crack them into small pieces, which can be dangerous if swallowed.

Also, do not purchase any balls that are smaller then your dog’s mouth/throat as this poses a potential choking hazard.

Toys to look for

Most pet stores have very knowledgeable staff and they know the different breeds and which toys are good for your dog and which ones are not. Just be sure that any toy you purchase is non-toxic.

Only purchase throw balls that are a tad bit larger then your dog’s throat to avoid having then swallow or choking on them.

Treats to avoid

DO NOT buy anything that says “Rawhide” on the label. This product splinters after being chewed and can get lodged in their esophagus or intestinal tract. This is not an easily digestible product and can cause serious internal injury. Many dogs have had to have surgery because of these products. Because many rawhide items come from outside the U.S. they are not regulated. Unfortunately this has lead to many dogs becoming extremely ill, a few have even died.  The reason for this is that non-U.S. regulated products have turned up containing such things as salmonella, arsenic, and other toxins. Some are even made of animal skin other then cow. So avoid RAWHIDE. Always read the package (front and back including all ingredients), if it says rawhide don’t buy it.

Additional info

Trainer information

We have referrals, so please contact Laurel of kinder4rescue and she’ll be happy to advise you on who would be best to use.

www.kinder4rescue.org

Housebreaking

See www.kinder4rescue.org for tips on housebreaking, as well www.aspca.org

Tips for the holidays

It is always best to have your dog secured in another room until all guests have arrived. With so many people coming in with food and presents, kids running in and out, a lot of hustle and bustle, with the front door constantly being opened this is when so many dogs go missing. If you keep them in a room until everyone has arrived then you need not worry about them running out the front door. Do the same as all of your guests are departing. This will keep your pet safe and at home.

An alternative would be to use the leash/tether + mat/bed technique. This is also used as a training tool for when guests come over. You train your dog to go lay on a bed or mat every time the doorbell rings or someone knocks. Give treats each time your dog does well and stays on mat. Dogs are so smart that it usually only takes a couple weeks to train them. So you may want to give it a try. However, I would advise using the leash/tether technique only as a safety precaution, if you want your dog in the room with you and guests come and go. To do this have your dog lay on their bed or mat, then tether their leash to something solid, so if your dog gets up to go towards the door they won’t be able to. Your dog will then sit back down. Again, this is only used for when people are coming in and out and there may be many distractions for which your dog could run, otherwise tethering is not something we approve of (use for training only, once trained you won’t have to do this anymore).  Other option is putting up doggy gate or large dog pen around front door so guests can come in and out and dog won’t dart out (this is preferred method for keeping your dog from running out front or back doors as people go in and out).

NEVER tether your dog to a staircase (not even 1 step up) as dogs could hang themselves if tethering past floor level (depending on the size of the dog).

There is a story I read a few years back about a guy who lost his dog during Halloween. He had been visiting with friends where, of course, the door was constantly being opened and closed to hand out treats to the kids. Sometime during the course of the evening his dog slipped out. His story broke my heart and to this day I cannot get the image out of my head, so all I can do is advise others in hopes you won’t ever have to experience what that poor man did.

Dog walkers and pet sitters

Be sure that your pet knows the person prior to your leaving them with a sitter or dog walker. Advise the individual that they must be careful when opening the front door because the dog may try to bolt out. This is very common when a dog owner goes away for a few days and leaves someone else to watch over them. Even at kenneling places, dogs have gotten away when being walked because the dog gets nervous, and boarding facilities are notorious for using their own very flimsy leashes (for some reason most won’t use the dogs regular leash). If it is a friend watching over them, just be sure that your dog knows them before you leave. If you board your dog at a kennel, although I do not recommend this, then be sure that they use a harness and a good sturdy leash on each dog. If they show you a flimsy thing they just put around your dog’s neck, turn around and take your dog someplace else. Kennels and boarding facilities that use these flimsy “leashes” have lost many dogs, never to be found again, because of these.

Always be sure to leave a check-off list of your dogs walking and eating schedule, info on vet you use, emergency vet info and assure that in writing you advise them precautions to take with doors opening and closing, dogs in backyard, educate on the coyotes and that they are to be extra careful.  Just be sure they follow your schedule exactly, just NEVER FORGET to tell them as well about the yard security, locks on gates remain locked, no little or medium size doggies allowed to roam free in backyards due to coyotes.

Introduction (10 Minutes)
· Statistics
· The Foundation for Safety and Friendship
· Who Really Wants to Live With a Toddler?

Dogs and Toddlers at Home (25 Minutes)

• Overview
• Basics for Toddler’s Side of Things
• Basics for Dog’s Side of Things
• Real Life Examples
• Fostering Friendship to Last a Lifetime
• Are Your Training Methods “Kid Safe”?

Dogs and Toddlers Meeting in Public (15 Minutes)

· Overview
· What Parents Need to Know
· What Dog Owners Need to Know

Helping Dogs Be More Comfortable/Safer With Toddlers (25 Minutes)

· Do These Dogs Look Happy?
· How to Help a Dog Be Calm
· HOW Do You Safely Socialize Dogs to Children?
· Recognizing Warning Signs and Red Flags

Question and Answer (10 Minutes)

What to Do From Here – References and Resources (5 Minutes)
Statistics

· Two thirds of our children will be bitten by dogs sometime before age twelve. Most of these dogs will be known to the children – their own dogs or dogs owned by family and friends.
· While most of the estimated 2.6 million bites per year will not leave lasting physical scars, some will be serious maulings resulting in death or disfigurement. Seventy-seven percent of bites to young children under four will be to the face and head. Every single bite will cause emotional distress for the family and most often trigger the dog’s one-way trip to the animal shelter.
· Parents are left wondering, “Well, what’s it going to be like for me? Is my dog a danger to my toddler? What about other people’s dogs? How do I keep both my young child and my old ‘baby’ safe and happy? After all, our dog is part of our family, too.”

What All Parents and Dog Owners Need to Know

· What you know may not be what you need to know! That is, what “everyone” knows to do with dog and kids is not working for 2/3 of our children.
· Normal dogs don’t “turn vicious” or bite out of the blue; there will be warning signs.
· Most owners will not recognize these signs (but you will!).
· Toddlers and dogs do not have the moral reasoning power to make good decisions and thus cannot be expected to be “friends” until the child is at least around age five.
· Success comes from your work with your dog and your work with your child. It is never about the relationship between the dog and the baby/child.
· Lassie and Timmy were both actors.
· Times have changed! Parents no longer respond to dog bites by asking the child, “What did you do to the dog?” Instead, lawyers are called.
· Dogs with even a single bite to a child (regardless of provocation) have a reduced chance for adoption to another home.

Even with all this, you CAN have your happy ending. How? By building your Foundation for Safety and Friendship and keeping that foundation in good repair.

The Foundation for Safety and Friendship

Toddler Dog
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. .
. .
. .
. .
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You

This most important part of this foundation is between you and your dog. Your relationship with your dog and the level of communication you share is what makes it possible for your children and your dog to become friends. So many common dog/toddler problems can be prevented with dog training that’s simple and fun to do.

Next step is between you and your toddler. Left to their own devices, toddlers will NOT choose appropriate, safe behavior with dogs. That’s just not what they do (see below). Parents are in the middle between dog and toddler, working with both to learn how to foster friendship and live in peace. They do this by preventing bad experiences and encouraging goodwill and tolerance between child and dog.

When toddlers get close to age 5, they can begin to build a bridge to the dog, offering more predictability and the start of true friendship. As the dog feels safe with the child, he also builds his bridge towards the child, meeting in the middle and forming a relationship all their own.

Here’s to that happy ending we are all looking for!

Who Really Wants to Live With a Toddler?

Remember – toddlers and children are not the same creatures! Most of our memories and mental pictures of kids growing up with dogs are geared towards older children. Here are just some of the things toddlers do every single day:

• Throw things · Play with obnoxious, loud toys
• Scream and yell · Hit, kick, pinch and grab
• Walk unsteadily, fall often · Throw tantrums
• Stare · Run, run, run!

Who in their right mind would CHOOSE to live with someone like this? Dogs don’t get the benefit of frantically paging through the parenting books to see when each new challenging stage will be finished.

There is very little a toddler has to offer a dog that a dog would enjoy. We love the little monkeys because they can be so cute and funny and we know that this time will not last forever. In fact, your dog doesn’t know that toddlers will ever grow out of this stuff and they aren’t swayed by any of the cute little things toddlers say to melt your heart.

Can you imagine how tough this can be for your dog? Sympathize with your dog’s perspective while you remind yourself, “This too will pass.” Soon enough, your toddler will become a child and his or her behavior will be more predictable and safe to your dog. Until then, the trick is to get through this period without any harm done.
Dogs and Toddlers At Home

Overview

Picture yourself regularly taking a commuter train to work each day. You see many of the same people every day. Most are people who read their papers and nod politely to each other. One person, though, is a bit of a weirdo. He stands too close, babbles to himself, stares at you and gets in your space.

All of a sudden the train jerks to a stop and people fall onto each other! If one of the paper-readers falls on you, won’t you both smile awkwardly at each other and simply brush yourselves off and get back to what you were doing? Now consider, what if it was the weirdo who fell on you? Feel any different about it? Are you likely to react differently?

Here’s another scenario. New neighbors are moving in next door. You look out and see it’s someone you recognize from your train. Don’t you think you’d go over and say hi if it were one of the paper-readers? Would you EVER be friends with the weirdo?

Moral of the story: Don’t let your child be the weirdo in your dog’s eyes. Far better to be polite acquaintances living uneventfully together until the child is old enough to be a friend to your dog.

The best way to keep your toddler safe from your dog is to keep your dog safe from your toddler.

Basics for The Toddler Side of Things

• Bites do not “come out of the blue.” If you regularly describe your dog as “great with kids,” take a step back and consider what makes you think this. Usually people say something like, “Because he lets the kids do__________” and list several things generally uncomfortable for dogs. Just like the straw that broke the camel’s back, dogs can reach a breaking point. Do not let your toddlers do things that annoy or bother your dog.
• Consider your dog as “unavailable” to your toddler(s). Learn effective child management techniques to redirect attraction to the dog. It IS possible for toddlers to ignore your dog and still be friends later.
• Know your toddler’s developmental stages and what can reasonably be expected in each stage
• Build positive associations with your dog. Speak well of him at all times!
• Do not badmouth your dog!
• When toddler approaches your dog, call your dog to you and reinforce him for coming. This will help him be more likely to come find you if cornered by your toddler.
• Walk with your toddler and be ready to step between toddler and dog before there is any contact.
• A toddler’s behavior is not predictable enough to be a friend to a dog. Your dog will not trust friendly overtures later if they are paired with crazy toddler behavior now.
• There is a big difference between not letting your toddler mess with your dog and saying such behavior is “not allowed.” The point is to prevent problems before they start, not just to tell the toddler “No” after he’s already done it. This is important in terms of building safe habits for your child. I can almost guarantee that toddlers will go back to the “no, no, no” behaviors as soon as they have an opportunity. Unless you are able to watch your toddler every single minute, it’s important to monitor what’s going into her repertoire.
• What you allow your child to practice doing with your dog is what he will develop as habitual behaviors with dogs in general. This is partially why so many children are bitten by dogs owned by friends and family. Other dogs may not be as forgiving as your dog has been. Early childhood habits and attitudes towards dogs form the foundation for influencing choices throughout childhood. What you do now may prevent a bite later!
• Do not laugh at or respond to things your toddler does with your dog other than casually removing the opportunity to continue the behavior. A common example is throwing food to the dog from the highchair.
• Does your dog get agitated at certain times of the day or with certain things your toddler does? Teach older toddlers how to notice when the dog is upset and to STOP what they are doing.
• Remind toddlers often that it is not their job to make the dog do anything or stop doing anything. Three and four year olds like to be little police officers!

Basics for the Dog’s Side of Things

All dogs have a goodwill/tolerance “bank” account. No one knows the starting balance, but we can keep track of the withdrawals and deposits along the way. Every unpleasant encounter is a withdrawal. Is your toddler writing checks on your dog’s account? Are you sure to be making deposits by actively reinforcing your dog with praise and treats whenever something annoying happens? If not, you may see a bounced check in the form of a growl or snap.

• How’s your training foundation? What behaviors could your dog learn or brush up on that would make things easier with a toddler? Training gives you the communication tools for teaching your dog what you WANT him to do. Think: “Wouldn’t it be cool if my dog did ________” rather than “I wish my dog would stop doing _________.”
•  Set yourself and your dog up for success! Are your dog’s basic needs for good nutrition, medical care, physical and mental exercise and time with the family being met?
• Dogs benefit from a little time away, too! Quick walks can do a world of good.
• Many dogs will not leave to be by themselves. Don’t assume your dog is OK just because he’s apparently choosing to stick around amid a lot of chaos. This is especially true when dogs are in a comfortable resting spot.
• Why not consider a fun dog training class to reconnect with your dog (and get out of the house yourself!)?
• Toddlers that come to visit are almost like starting over for your dog. Do not expect the same tolerance and be prepared to reinforce heavily.
• Are you wearing “Lassie Glasses” and missing important warning signs in your dog’s behavior?
• Dogs pick up on YOUR stress whether you want them to or not. What can you do to make things easier for yourself? That will help your dog and child, too.

Real Life Examples

“What do I do when…”

• Dog is barking and driving me crazy
• Dog grabs toddler’s toy
• Toddler bounces ball off dog’s head (or similar disruptive thing)
• Child is walking around with food and dog is trying to get it
• Dog knocks over child
• Toddler throws food on the floor
• Dog growls at child
• Toddler hits dog
• Toddler has tantrum and freaks out the dog b/c he’s hitting ME
• Toddler is obsessed with dog’s water bowl (or toy basket)
• Etc.

For any situation, your response is going to follow the same basic pattern. The idea is to remain focused on the future. “This time” has already happened and can’t be changed, but you CAN influence how things turn out next time.

1.  Remain calm. Respond as if you are well in control of the situation. Reacting by yelling or getting upset only serves to add emotional fuel to the fire and actually make it more likely that the problem will be repeated. Model the behavior you’d like your child to show when things go wrong in her own life.
2. Was it bad for your dog? Immediately make eye contact, praise your dog and give him some treats. Give enough reinforcement to your dog to more than make up for whatever withdrawal just happened. Do not yell at your toddler.
3. Was it bad for your toddler? Remain neutral towards your dog, calm and steady with your toddler until she calms down. Emphasize that YOU will handle things. Do not yell at your dog.
4. Analyze the situation. Can you identify a training gap and fix it? Did your management break down? Are you set up for success with both toddler and dog? Do these problems happen at the same time each day? Anyone tired or hungry
5. Make a plan for how to prevent in the future (training or management).

Fostering Friendship Between Dog and Toddler

When?

• § Child is between four and five years old
• § Child shows an interest AND can reliably follow directions and rules
• § Dog already knows how to take treats gently without being reminded
• § Dog is already good at a few basic behaviors or tricks. Good ones are Sit, Down, Wait and Come. (Do not allow toddler to work on “Shake”.)

How?

• § Under direct parental supervision. Parent is responsible for both dog and toddler. Expect to be actively coaching both. Have some treats handy to reinforce dog for hanging in there with child!
• § In set “sessions”, not something toddler is encouraged to do on his own
• § Consider picking up some “gear” for your toddler – treat bag, his own treats, etc. This is fun for kids and makes it easier to limit “training” to when you are available to supervise (and get his gear down from its high/hiding place).
• § When first teaching gentle touches, teach “Pet, pet, pet…All Done…Walk Away”. Toddlers like to say “All Done” to the dog (even though we know it’s meant for them). Teach touches that are already familiar and pleasant to your dog. Good choices are petting shoulder area on the closest side or stroking from top of head to middle of back.
• § Start referring to dog as “your dog,” as in, “Let your dog out.”

What? – Provide Relief

• § Best first choices are things that provide relief to your dog. Stuff like filling the water bowl when dog is thirsty (can set up after a walk) – child fills from a watering can vs. carrying water bowl. Other things are opening door to let dog out or in (if child already opens doors) or being the one to give permission with the food bowl.
• § Caution on toddler “helping” with feeding: involving a toddler usually means the feeding takes a lot longer. This can be frustrating and annoying to the dog and have the opposite effect of fostering friendship if the toddler’s involvement means that it takes longer to get food!

What? – Build Communication

• § All training is communication and what child doesn’t want to learn to talk to the animals?
• § Allow child to cue easy behaviors for the dog and reinforce with treats. This helps the dog learn to listen and respond to the child and to anticipate this sort of relationship in future interactions. It makes the child more familiar and predictable and thus, safer to be around.
• § Play games as a family! Hide and Seek recalls, jumping over things together, calling dog’s name, teaching tricks, etc.
• § Parents can start dog on clicker training and incorporate into toddler sessions.
• § NOTE: In no way is training expected to “show the dog who’s boss” or make the dog “respect” child as you may read in older, dominance-based training books. That is a dangerous way for dogs and toddlers to relate to each other. Remember, this is the time for building a foundation and beginning to foster friendship. Set your expectations accordingly.

Training Methods Have Come a Long Way – Are Yours “Kid-Safe”?

The Basics
Modern dog training techniques have little in common with the old days of “military style” training with choke chains and lots of yelling and yanking on the dog to make him do things. Trainers and pet owners around the world have found that you just don’t have to do these things to effectively motivate and communicate with ANY animal, let alone the animals we have as our friends.
“Dominance/alpha theory” as applied to our relationships with pet dogs has been questioned for quite some time and is falling out of favor in the scientific community. There is little substantive scientific basis for using wolf pack theory as a basis for communicating with our pet dogs. Plus, it’s not that useful for fostering friendships between children and dogs. Kids will never win under those rules.
In addition, any training method involving the use of force or intimidation carries unique risks to young children – physical, emotional and developmental. Why take risks with your child when you can use benevolent, no-force methods to achieve even better training results?

Physical Safety Concerns

• It’s only a matter of time before your toddler mimics your behavior with your dog. This is how kids learn. What is YOUR toddler learning? If your toddler is learning to point at the dog, grab the dog roughly by the collar, shout at the dog or even more dangerous actions, she is going to be at risk of a serious bite when the dog says, “Enough!” The bite may come from your dog; it may come from a dog at a friend’s house
• If your dog has been raised with the philosophy that “might makes right,” he may have less inhibition about doing his own “corrections” to your child when she inevitably does something annoying
• If your training approach focuses on suppressing behavior by punishing the dog, please keep in mind that you cannot predict when this behavior will “bubble up” again. The dog has not learned the skills he needs to manage this situation and will not know what else to do
• A specific danger from punishing or “correcting” dogs for those initial lower-level aggressive responses like growling or air snapping is that you just might see the next level come without warning. Keep punishing the warning signs and you may end up seeing a serious bite come seemingly out of nowhere.

Effects on Small Children – Emotional and Developmental

• “Problem behaviors” from our pets are opportunities to teach our children how to approach problem solving with empathy and compassion towards the feelings and needs of others. Consider: “Betty didn’t go on her walk today so she has a lot of extra energy – let’s throw the ball for her” vs “Goshdarnit! STOP JUMPING! NO – BAD DOG!” This is also an opportunity to focus on the importance of paying attention and taking responsibility: “It’s not the dog’s fault we left the sausage on the table. Next time, we will clear the table before going out to play.”
• Your behavior with your dog shows your child what you are capable of. Your child may reasonably deduce that your same reactions are available for how she will be treated. Will your child be afraid of you based on how she sees you react to your dog’s mistakes?
• What are you demonstrating about how to handle situations that do not go your way? Your behavior with your dog is a model to your child on what to do when things do not go HIS way – generalized to all kinds of situations, possibly for a lifetime.
• Many children form strong connections and feel “allied” with family pets. It can be devastating and alienating for children to see them treated harshly.
• What do kids learn about the permanence of family members when they hear parents yelling at “that damn dog?” Besides contributing to a throw-away view of animals, kids have to wonder whether those same rules apply to them. Will very young children think parents might want to “get rid of” them someday, too?

Effect on Parents of Venting Anger

• Physiological studies on the effects of anger – particularly lashing out when you are angry – showed the surprising conclusion that it is beneficial to your health to keep your cool.
• From Authentic Happiness by Dr. Martin Seligman: “…the angriest (in the study) had roughly five times as much heart disease as the least angry ones. In another study, men who had the highest risk of later heart attacks were just the ones with more explosive voices, more irritation when forced to wait, and more outwardly directed anger. In experimental studies, when male students bottle up their anger, blood pressure goes down, and it goes up if they decide to express their feelings. Anger expression raises blood pressure for women as well. In contrast, friendliness in reaction to trespass lowers it.” (my emphasis)
• Next time your dog drives you up a wall, give YOURSELF a break and let it go! Think instead of the heart-healthy habits your example is instilling in your child!

What to Do Instead

• · Modern reinforcement-based training gives you the tools to teach your dog what you want him to do. No longer are owners limited to attempts to communicate “no”. Teach your dog what you would like him to do instead and circumvent all the nagging and scolding.
  · Dog trainers use the term “Management” to describe behavior solutions that involve no actual training! Set your family up for success by preventing problems from starting or escalating. Management doesn’t change the dog – it changes the situation. Management is not failsafe, however, so do not plan to rely solely on things like baby gates and closed doors to keep a dangerous dog away from a baby or young child.
  · Respond calmly when something goes wrong; act as if it’s no big deal as you model the calm assurance of someone who is on top of things and won’t be riled. This is also more effective for getting what you want – too much excitement actually reinforces unwanted behavior and/or makes it harder to catch the dog!
  · Avoid reprimanding the dog in the presence of your toddler or young child. This is so important to avoid future problems where a toddler will mimic your actions or possibly learn to provoke the dog as a way to stir up some attention or excitement.
  · Specific to dog and baby/toddler interactions, supervise to proactively prevent unsafe encounters and goodwill “withdrawals”. Remember that supervising and preventing means it doesn’t happen in the first place. Almost every single fatal dog attack involving a child or infant began without an adult present – meaning that the child and dog somehow ended up alone together. Never rely on the self-control and moral reasoning powers of an animal or young child!

Dogs and Toddlers Meeting in Public

Overview

Imagine you are out with your husband minding your own business. Along comes a man who asks your husband if he can kiss you – and your husband says he can! Then, when you push the guy away, your husband yells at you and says, “He was only being friendly and trying to show you his love.” Yikes – that’s a creepy example – but is it really THAT different for our dogs when we ask them to tolerate uncomfortable touches from toddlers?

What Parents Need to Know

• § Practice simply observing dogs with your toddler. Stop a little distance away from the dog and just watch. Point out interesting things to notice – colors, what the dog is doing, what kind of dog, etc. Approach the sight of a dog as if it were an animal in the zoo vs. an amusement park attraction. This gives you time to assess the safety of the situation and prevents your child from developing the habit of running up to strange dogs.
• § **Most dog owners do not have sufficient influence over their dogs’ behavior choices and they overestimate their dogs’ interest in being touched by a toddler.
• § Just because an owner says, “Yes, your toddler may pet my dog” doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. I’ve known more than one owner who was holding his/her breath and hoping nothing bad would happen. The social pressure to say yes is so strong that it overwhelms common sense.
• § Talk to dog owners! Say things like, “Hi! Your dog is very beautiful. We are enjoying watching her walk with you.” You can have a “meeting” that does not involve touching. Do not ask to touch the dog! If the owner offers to allow your toddler to touch, you can assess the situation and decide appropriately:
• § Do NOT touch: dogs on prong or shock collars, dogs whose owners jerk on the leash or yell or speak sharply to the dog, dogs barking AT your child, dogs backing away, dogs that stare at your child, dogs straining at the leash to come visit.
• § Use CAUTION* with: dogs on choke chains, dogs wearing head halters, dogs who do not look at your child. (*means I would not allow my kids to touch)
• § CONSIDER visiting: dogs who maintain a loose leash, respond easily to their owner and remain calm and relaxed as you approach. It’s usually a good sign if the owner is prepared with treats to make it a positive experience for the dog.
• § Can always ask to see any tricks as a fun way for an interested owner to show off her dog!
• § What do you do if you decide to allow your toddler to visit? You or the dog’s owner are between the dog’s head and the child at all times. Slide your hand along with your child’s so you can prevent any grabbing or pulling. Remember: Pet, pet, pet – All Done.
• § Expect dogs to want to lick toddler’s faces – can knock kids down or make kids cry.
• § If toddler is already obsessed with dogs, realize that this is no different than any other toddler “obsession”. What if your toddler were obsessed with basketballs (as mine was)? Would you allow him to run onto courts and grab basketballs whenever he sees them? No, you would manage to deal with the tantrums until your toddler matured enough to watch calmly.
• § Explain to toddlers that it’s important to give dogs space.
• § Toddlers learn from their parents. Be nonchalant when you see dogs. It’s OK to point them out but resist the urge to get your toddler all excited. He or she will come to love dogs in the proper time.
• § Tell your child he may touch dogs with you when he’s five years old. This may help in situations where other people offer their dogs to your toddler to touch (even when the dogs are out of control!).
• § Never allow your child to go up to people with dogs by himself. Always, always, always be right there with your child.
• § Special Points for Loose dogs:

• o Watch out for staring at your toddler
  o Do not let toddler “toddle” around loose dogs. Pick up your child.
  o Plan to intercept dogs if they approach
  o Tell the owner to call his/her dog and put him on leash
  o Leave the park if you are uncomfortable with the situation
  o Call Animal Services if there is a leash law issue

What Dog Owners Need to Know

§ KNOW THIS: Toddlers can be rough on dogs. “Affection” takes the form of too tight hugs, trying to kiss, grabbing at paws to shake, etc. Young toddlers often pull fur, grab and pinch – it’s just what they do. PLAN: Given this, how will you ensure a good experience for your dog? Feel free to say “no” if you are not prepared or are not interested. There’s a lot of social pressure to allow your dog to be petted by toddlers so some owners come up with convenient lies! “My dog doesn’t feel well today” or “It’s not my dog.”
§ Expect to have to be the one to tell the toddler “No” and plan to be direct and clear in your instruction. “I’m sorry but you may not touch my dog today.” Use a “stop” hand signal with younger toddlers.
§ Always an available option to simply turn and walk your dog away if you see an out-of-control toddler.
§ If you want to allow toddler to pet your dog, make sure the parent is present and engaged.
§ If there are several children, only allow one at a time to pet your dog (if you choose to allow petting).
§ Your hands should be on your dog the whole time the toddler is petting or close enough to touch. Your hands are comforting and familiar and your touch allows you to feel for any tension in your dog’s body. You can also prevent toddler grabbing.
§ If all is going well after several seconds, end the encounter. Either finish your walk or you can offer to show a trick or two!
§ Regarding treats, DO carry treats with you to reinforce tolerance and to make deposits. However, NEVER fool yourself into using treats to “cover up” for a dog who is acutely uncomfortable with small children (or who has a history of growling around food). The attraction of the treat can mask warning signs and you may see a snap or growl when the treats are no longer there.
Helping Dogs Be More Comfortable/Safer With Toddlers

Do These Dogs Look Happy?

(Review of photos in class)

Here’s a list of common body language/behavior differences between stressed dogs and happy dogs. Most dogs will not show ALL these signs so look for a predominance of happy vs. stressed. Also, an important sign of stress in your own dog is a change from how he or she normally looks or acts.

Stressed Dogs
Relaxed/Happy Dogs
§ Move very fast or remain unnaturally still or frozen § Move normally, relaxed speed
§ “Wild eyes” darting around or eyes pointedly looking away § Respond to praise with wags and eye contact
§ Might be barking § Can still do behaviors and may even offer known behaviors
§ Tense body, held stiffly § Look the same as they did before the toddler interaction started
§ Does not respond to owner cues § Will look at the child (as if open to communication)
§ May refuse to take/eat treats § If excited, will be “dancing” vs. jumping and lunging
§ Panting, even drooling § Ears falling naturally
§ Tail tucked or wagging frantically
§ Ears pulled back
§ Growling

Notice that many of the behaviors of a stressed dog lead to “correction” from owners. This makes matters worse!

Allow a stressed dog the opportunity to calm down before even thinking about allowing a toddler to interact or be close to the dog. In fact, the absence of “looking happy” is an early warning sign in itself for some dogs.

How to Calm a Dog

§ First step: Calm Yourself! Breathe deeply and slowly. Allow your hands to be quiet and gentle on your dog.
§ Do some Calming Signals: Yawn, look away, lick your lips, look down at the ground or crouch down in interest, turn away, etc. Kids are great at calming signals!
§ Give the dog some space. Stop whatever’s going on when the dog appears stressed. Heed the early warning signals. Being “heard” is very reassuring to dogs.
§ Offer treats for effort or for steps in the right direction even if it’s not exactly what you want. Treats can change the whole picture for a dog and take the pressure right off.
§ Play some Canine Lullabies (available for sale at the San Diego Humane Society)
§ Teach dog to go get a comforting toy when he’s stressed
§ Do some tricks your dog knows well.
§ Praise your dog just for being a good dog.
§ Stand in-between your dog and the object of his concern.
§ Teach your dog to respond to whispered cues and use these cues in stressful situations.
§ Take your dog out of the situation.

How Do You Safely Socialize Dogs to Children?

The first step is to keep your dog safe and protect him from bad experiences, keeping in mind that your DOG gets to decide what’s a good or bad experience irrespective of the intent of the toddlers. “Socialization” comes from positive experiences and represents the dog’s conclusion that a particular situation is safe and normal and nothing to be concerned about. Socialization does not happen through repeated exposure to scary or unpleasant things in hopes that the dog will just get used to it.

The next step is to build a strong foundation of attention behaviors. This is so the dog will know what to do when he’s unsure. The answer will be to look at you and check in for guidance.

Exposure to a wide variety of other novel situations (i.e., not toddlers) will give you and your dog a chance to practice and to build your dog’s confidence in checking in with you and feeling safe.

If dog is a “blank slate” with toddlers:

• Still practice first with other novel stimuli. At the very least, you will see whether there is any difference when children are involved.
• Arrange controlled experiences with calm children who will follow directions
• Do some of the “fostering friendship” suggestions
• Realize that none of this will make the dog “like” bad treatment from other children later on. Nothing will make a dog enjoy being treated poorly!

If dog is already unhappy with toddlers:

• Do more with other situations; give your dog a break from child interactions.
• Expect to work with a qualified trainer and/or do a LOT of self-study to understand aggressive behavior. This is not something that can be covered in a few tips.
• Remember to breathe and be calm yourself!
• Always start working at a distance where your dog notices but does not get worried. Use double rewards of treat AND leaving the situation.
• Don’t expect your dog to suddenly “like” toddlers. Goal should be to increase your dog’s comfort zone or goodwill/tolerance buffer in order to get by safely in everyday situations.

If your unhappy dog must live with a toddler:

• Pay particular attention to the following section on red flags and warning signs and plan to consult with a qualified trainer.
• Must be able to guarantee that the toddler will not mess with the dog
• Family must be committed to positive reinforcement-based training
• Look at the dog’s bite thresholds (what makes him growl/bite), bite inhibition (how hard might he bite?), size and power of the dog and any other history of aggressive behavior as key factors in deciding whether to take a chance living with a toddler.
• Remember that your toddler will grow to be a child and your dog may not be as uncomfortable as during the toddler stage.

Recognizing Warning Signs and Red Flags

The “red flag” examples below are frequently associated with serious dog/child problems–where there is injury or threat to the toddler and/or the dog is re-homed or euthanized. Training, management and your relationship with your dog will affect how serious these problems may be in your situation. Just knowing the potential for problems puts you miles ahead of other parents and ensures more effective vigilance. Red flags don’t necessarily mean an unworkable situation, but they do require serious family discussion and a solid plan for resolution and problem prevention. Expect to enlist the help of a qualified trainer.

NOTE: Review this list with the dogs of friends and family members in mind, too. If you have a concern, do not risk your child’s safety out of fear of offending someone!

□ Dog does not live in the house, particularly if chained
□ Unneutered male dog
□ Dog used for protection or guard work
□ Not friendly with children/bad experience with children
□ Little or no basic training, especially leash walking and barking
□ Use of correction-based training or alpha/dominance techniques
□ The child’s primary caregiver has insufficient interest or skill to safely manage dog and toddler
□ Does not like certain types of touch: ____________________________
□ Not friendly with visitors to the house
□ Will growl or bite over food bowl, rawhides, bones or other objects
□ Painful or annoying medical condition: __________________________
□ Objects to being moved off furniture, disturbed when resting, etc.
□ Not all family members “like” the dog
□ You would describe your dog as “Hard to read”
□ Sensitive, nervous dog
□ Dog is “protective” or “possessive” of certain family member(s)
□ Rough play style
□ Shows dissatisfaction by growling, snapping or biting, for example: when you try to “make” the dog do something he doesn’t want to do
□ Past history of ANY other aggressive behavior towards people or other animals
□ __________________________________________________
□ __________________________________________________

(Bold items have been associated with infant or toddler fatalities. Refer to Fatal Dog Attacks, The Stories Behind the Statistics by Karen Delise.)

Understanding Thresholds – The “Perfect Storm” for a Bite

Rather than label individual dogs as “biters” or “non-biters,” consider that every dog has the potential to bite if stretched to his limit. Just as people have different flash points for their tempers and different things that “set them off” and different ways of expressing their angst, dogs are individuals who will react in their own ways to situations they find stressful. And…having a toddler in the house can be very stressful.

Remember, dogs don’t bite “out of the blue” – it just seems that way sometimes when warning signs are missed. Remember the story of the straw that broke the camel’s back? Refer to the following illustration to see how a typical bite can happen.

Bite Thresholds Example:

Bite 10
9
8
Warns 7
6
5
Uncomfortable 4
3
Not Sure 2
1
Fast Movements Disturbing Sleep Loud Noises Accumulated Stress Handling Feet

Key Factors

• How hard will dog bite?
• Number of potential triggers to manage
• How quickly does dog go from 1 to 10?
• Presence of accumulated stress (Goodwill bank account)
• How do you know when dog is uncomfortable or approaching a trigger point? Calming Signals; signs of stress. Plus, “okay” is not OK! Goal is a happy, comfortable, relaxed dog. Know what this looks like!
• When is it just too dangerous for a young child?

Play it Safe – What to Do

• Learn how to help dog “back down” the level
• Teach alternate reactions; actively reinforce tolerance
• Build dog’s general repertoire and level of responsiveness
• Know that correction/punishment can mask a growing problem; underlying issue is not “fixed” (See Training Methods section)
• Get help!

APPENDIX: Where to Go From Here?

San Diego Humane Society FREE Behavior Helpline
619-299-7012, Ext. 2244 for any sort of pet behavior question or problem.
Trainer will call back to discuss. Also lots of classes for family dogs; private consultations and behavior evaluations also available.

Books and Videos

• The Power of Positive Training by Pat Miller – step-by step dog training book
• Easy to Love, Difficult to Discipline by Becky Bailey, Phd. – a parenting book so helpful for training the toddler side of things!
• The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell – Booklet for fearful and reactive dogs.
• Click to Calm by Emma Parsons – Written for dogs uncomfortable with other dogs, but applies equally to dogs and toddlers.
• Clicker Puppy (DVD) by Karen Pryor – Children are doing all the training for young pups.
• Take a Bow, Wow! by Broitman and Lippman – Videos on all kinds of tricks!

Internet Resources

• You are welcome to e-mail me with any questions or concerns at enjoydog@san.rr.com. I offer a limited number of private consultations and will be adding hands-on dog training classes specifically for expectant parents and other classes to help preschool age children foster friendships with their dogs. Send me an e-mail if you’d like advance notice for any of these programs. Also, I will have a website up in a few months: http://www.dogsbabieskids.com (not ready yet, though!).
• http://www.clickersolutions.com – Great website with helpful e-mail list, tips and interesting articles on many different training challenges. See also http://www.clickertraining.com for fascinating articles on real life applications of scientific training.
• http://www.apdt.com – Association of Pet Dog Trainers website has a listing of trainers throughout the country. MOST APDT trainers use positive reinforcement methods but this is not a requirement of membership; use good judgment when interviewing trainers. You may also call the SDHS Behavior Helpline to discuss training recommendations.·
• http://www.yahoogroups.com – Look for the group called “AgBeh” for a discussion forum on aggressive behavior in dogs. As always, use your good judgment before following any old suggestion, but this group is usually well-moderated by an experienced, reinforcement-based trainer and can be great place to learn more about aggressive behavior.

APPENDIX: Nutrition Information

As mentioned in the materials, diet plays an important role in your dog’s overall well-being and behavior, particularly regarding aggressive behaviors. There are tons of internet resources on nutrition and references to lots of books with more information on the subject. The Whole Dog Journal provides independent name brand food reviews on an annual basis. Refer to http://www.whole-dog-journal.com for the full articles and analysis.

Brands that have made the Whole Dog Journal’’s list of Recommended brands for several years running:

• California Natural – Chicken and Ric
• Canidae
• Flint River Ranch Dry Water
• Solid Gold
• Natural Balance Dry Dog Food
• Innova
• Avo-derm

Brands on the Whole Dog Journal’’s “Not Recommended” list include:

• Diamond’s Premium
• Eukaneuba Adult
• Iams
• Nature’s Recipe
• Nutro Max
• Purina One
• Beniful
• Science Diet Canine Maintenance
• Pedigree Prime

For further questions, consult with your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary nutrition specialist.

A dog’s bite may be worse than its bark — especially if the pooch isn’t feeling well. A new study has determined that dogs brought to a veterinary behavior clinic for biting children most often didn’t have a previous history of biting. The research, which was conducted by a team of experts from the University of Pennsylvania, School of Veterinary Medicine and The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia, found that about half of the 111 dogs in the study had preexisting medical conditions that may have triggered the lash out.
These Medical ailments that triggered lashing out included hip dysplasia (and the associated arthritic pain), compromised vision, itchiness and ear pain, says one of the study’s authors, Ilana R. Reisner, DVM, PhD, DACVB, a professor of veterinary medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. Reisner cautions that the association between bad behavior and illness in half of the dogs in the study doesn’t imply that medical problems were the cause of the bad behavior. Some dogs are aggressive, and that needs to be treated as a behavioral issue. But veterinary experts say it’s quite common for canines that have never shown any aggressive traits to snap, bite and show other signs of agitation when they are ill — and particularly when they have chronic conditions.
Since your pet can’t speak, here’s how you can read the signs that something is physically wrong with your dog before it, too, may snap.

Signs That Your Dog Is Ill
Most people can recognize when a canine is sick to its stomach because it may leave behind telltale visible evidence, but other ailments are much harder to detect. In addition to physical symptoms, you should look out for behavioral signs. There are two main categories of behavior that can signal red flags:

•  Lethargy
  The most common indicator that a dog isn’t feeling well is not aggression — it’s depression, or lethargy, says Bonnie Beaver, DVM, past president of the American Veterinary Medicine Association and a professor at Texas A&M University. “The most common changes would be where the dog becomes less active, doesn’t want to eat or eats less, tends to sleep more and tends to interact with the family less,” Dr. Beaver says. “This is a common sign associated with fever, although it can be the result of other things, too, such as an upset stomach.”
• Aggression
  Another behavior that can be an indicator of a pet ailment is unusual aggression. In this sense, dogs have a lot in common with humans. “If I have a headache, I get grumpy. My fuse is shorter,” Dr. Beaver says. “We don’t know that dogs have headaches per se, but if they have a chronic pain, such as arthritis, or if they have an ear infection, they hurt. It eats at them. Their fuse is shorter, too.” Little things that would not have bothered your pooch in the past suddenly become transgressions that merit a growl or even a snap. This is particularly of concern if children are in the household. Many children tend to want to hug, pick up or be physical with the family pet. A growl or nip may be the dog saying, “Leave me alone,” says Dr. Beaver. But you should read these warning signs and take action before the interaction gets that far — or worse.

Steps To Prevent Bad Behavior

Many dogs would never bite, snap or growl at humans, Dr. Beaver says. Like numerous other behaviors, it depends on the individual pooch, its inherent temperament, and even the background of the pet. If the dog was rescued from an abusive situation, you may not know whether the pup will respond with aggression to pain. Here are some steps that you can take to try to prevent a situation from ever getting that far.

• Yearly veterinary exams
  These are a must to keep tabs on your pet’s possible physical ailments. Dogs that come down with many diseases, such as cancer, liver problems, eye disease, etc. don’t show obvious physical signs until the disease is quite advanced. Beaver recommends that you ask your veterinarian to do a complete physical exam, including blood tests, on your pet each year.

  Treat ailments sooner rather than later If you see outward signs of sickness in your pup –scratching more than usual, a red “hotspot” on their body, or limping or crying when it jumps into the car — it’s important to have those symptoms treated as soon as possible. Ailments such as joint pain, ear infections or dental pain “can increase irritability,” Dr. Reisner says.

• Never leave small children alone with pets
  Pet owners need to constantly supervise whenever youngsters and pets are together. “Little kids don’t mean to hurt, but they don’t think. They may do things that scare or hurt the dog,” Dr. Beaver says. Petting from a child may feel like slapping to the dog. And kids screaming and yelling may even frighten a pooch. “Even the most loving, trusting dog in certain situations can react,” Dr. Beaver says.
• Dogs should always have a quiet place to go
  Your home should have a place where the dog can go to escape noise, children, and other potential annoyances — but especially when it’s ill. This may be created by putting up a dog gate or by placing a dog bed in a quiet area of the basement. Make the quiet place warm, cozy and easily accessible for a sick pup. Dogs with arthritis may be uncomfortable lying down outside or on a cold floor. Similarly, walking up and down stairs to get to their escape place might be difficult.

Reisner says that her research on children who are bitten by dogs holds some important messages for dog owners — and parents, in particular. Illness can increase the risk of aggressive behavior in dogs, even those with no predisposition to aggression. “When they’re not feeling well, they need to be treated with some extra caution,” she says. “Leave a dog alone if it’s setting itself apart or moves away to the other side of the room. Don’t let a child interact with the dog. And, if the child is too young to listen to those guidelines, put up a gate.” Both dog and child may not appreciate the temporary solution, but they’ll be better off because of it.

Social Isolation/Frustration/Attention-Seeking

Your dog may be barking out of boredom and loneliness if:

He’s left alone for long periods of time without opportunities to interact with you. His environment is relatively barren, without companions or toys.
He’s a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn’t have other outlets for his energy.

He’s a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs to be occupied to be happy.

Recommendations:

• Expand your dog’s world and increase his “people time” in the following ways:
• Walk your dog at least twice daily, it’s good exercise, both mental and physical. Walks should not only be considered “potty breaks.”
• Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbeeｮ and practice with him as often as possible.
• Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks and practice them every day for five to ten minutes.
• Take a dog-training class with your dog. This allows you and your dog to work together toward a common goal.

To help fill the hours that you’re not home, provide safe, interesting toys to keep your dog busy, such as Kongｮ-type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys. Rotating the toys will make them seem new and interesting.

If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting, grooming, playing, exercising).

• Keep your dog inside when you’re unable to supervise him.
• Let your neighbors know that you are actively working on the problem.
• If your dog is well socialized and you have your employer’s permission, take your dog to work with you every now and then.
• When you have to leave your dog for extended periods of time, take him to a “doggie day care center,” hire a pet sitter or dog walker, or have a trusted friend or neighbor walk and play with him.
• Territorial/Protective Behavior

Your dog may be barking to guard his territory if:

• The barking occurs in the presence of “intruders,” which may include the mail carrier, children walking to school, and other dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards.
• Your dog’s posture while he’s barking appears threatening tail held high and ears up and forward.
• You’ve encouraged your dog to be responsive to people and noises outside.

Recommendations:

• Teach your dog a “quiet” command. When he begins to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say “quiet” and interrupt his barking by shaking a can filled with pennies or squirting water at his mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun. This surprise should cause him to stop barking momentarily. While he’s quiet, say “good quiet” and pop a tasty treat into his mouth. Remember, the loud noise or squirt isn’t meant to punish him; rather it’s to distract him into being quiet so you can reward him. If your dog is frightened by the noise or squirt bottle, find an alternative method of interrupting his barking (perhaps throw a toy or ball near him).
• Desensitize your dog to the stimulus that triggers the barking. Teach him that the people he views as intruders are actually friends and that good things happen to him when these people are around. Ask someone to walk by your yard, starting far enough away so that your dog isn’t barking, then reward quiet behavior and correct responses to a “sit” or “down” command with special treats such as little pieces of cheese. As the person gradually comes closer, continue to reward your dog’s quiet behavior. It may take several sessions before the person can come close without your dog barking. When the person can come very close without your dog barking, have him feed your dog a treat or throw a toy for him.
• If your dog barks while inside the house when you’re home, call him to you, have him obey a command such as “sit” or “down,” and reward him with praise and a treat. Remember to pay attention to your dog when he’s being quiet, too, so that he comes to associate such behavior with attention and praise.
• Don’t encourage this type of barking by enticing your dog to bark at things he hears or sees outside.
• Have your dog spayed or neutered to decrease territorial behavior.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog’s barking may be a response to something he’s afraid of if:

The barking occurs when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction noise.
Your dog’s posture indicates fear容ars back, tail held low.

Recommendations:

• Identify what’s frightening your dog and desensitize him to it. You may need professional help with the desensitization process. Talk to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification.
• During thunderstorms or other frightening times, mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a comfortable area in a basement or windowless bathroom, and leave on a television, radio, or loud fan. Block off your dog’s access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response, by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms. Avoid coddling your dog so that he doesn’t think that he is being rewarded for his fearful behavior.

Separation Anxiety

Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:

• The barking occurs only when you’re gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
• Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, greeting you frantically, or reacting anxiously whenever you prepare to leave.
• Your dog has recently experienced a change in the family’s schedule that means he’s left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

Recommendations:

Some cases of separation anxiety can be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. Successful treatment for some cases may also require the use of medication prescribed by your veterinarian.

Bark Collars

There are several types of bark collars on the market, and we generally don’t recommend them. The main drawback of any bark collar is that it doesn’t address the underlying cause of the barking. You may be able to eliminate the barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog may begin digging or escaping, or become destructive or even aggressive. A bark collar must be used in conjunction with behavior modification that addresses the reason for the barking, as outlined above. You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety, or fears or phobias, because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.

You can read reviews about bark collars & their effectiveness on the Petco website at: http://www.petco.com/Shop/petco_SearchResults_Nav_1_N_22+30+5683_Ntt_anti-bark+collars.aspx

More information about barking dogs at:

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_sheets/barking.html

http://dogs.about.com/cs/behaviorissues/p/barking.htm

http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=pets_barking

(Mr. Eigenhauser is an attorney at law licensed in the State of California since 1979 and practices in the areas of civil litigation and estate planning)

ANTI-DOG ENFORCEMENT – What Every Dog Owner Needs to Know
Dog owners and ethical breeders are increasingly being targeted. Disgruntled neighbors may retaliate against dog owners and may other reasons drive complaints, and anti-dog enforcement action, which many times may be conducted illegally.
The following text outlines methods of inquiry and enforcement which may be used by local officials in attempts to enforce ordinances in your community and suggested techniques of response. These techniques are entirely legal and based upon the rights of citizens as stated by the U.S. Constitution.
No rescuer or pet owner wants to have Animal Control come knocking on the door…but if they do, it will help if you know what your options are.

Remember, Animal Control is law enforcement. They are bound by the same Constitution as any other government agency. To protect yourself, you need to know your rights. These vary slightly one jurisdiction to another, but some general principles apply. One rule applies everywhere: never physically resist an officer.
When Animal Control is At Your Door:

1. Do not let them in, no matter how much they ask. Animal Control generally cannot enter your home without a warrant, or your permission. While regular police can enter in emergency situations when human life is at risk (i.e. they hear gunshots and a scream inside), there are few, if any, situations in which Animal Control can enter your home without a warrant. Simply tell them they may not come in.
2. If you let them in, anything they find in “plain sight” can be used against you. In some circumstances Animal Control officers, unable to find a legitimate reason to make an arrest, have reported building or zoning violations. This may include caging you attached to a wall without a building permit, that extra outlet in the puppy room, having more pets than allowed by zoning, even extension cords in violation of fire codes! No matter how clean your kennel, if they want to find a violation, they will.
3. Do not talk to them from an open doorway. Step outside an close (and lock if possible) the door behind you. This is necessary because:
   • A) Anything they see through the open door is “plain sight” and may be the basis for an arrest, or probable cause for a search warrant.
   • B) If they make an arrest or even feel threatened they are usually permitted to search for weapons in your immediate area. Do you keep a baseball bat inside the door for your protection? Even if you don’t, once they step inside to look, they are in your home and may continue to search.
   • C) It is hard not to be intimidated by someone in authority. Some animal control is even done by local police, who carry guns. It is easy for them to get “in your face”, causing you to back up into the home. Once you go in, it will be interpreted as an invitation to follow.
4. If they claim to have a warrant, demand to see it. In general, a search warrant must be signed by a judge. A warrant to search your home for dogs does not include an inventory of your jewelry box. A warrant to search your kennel in the garage or in the barn does not include a search of your home.
5. In some locations dog owners may have obtained special “breeder or rescue permits” that stipulate that Animal Control has your permission to enter at any time. If you have signed such a permit they still cannot enter against your wishes, since you can revoke the permission at any time. However, if you refuse permission it may allow them to cancel your permit, so you have to weigh the consequences.
6. Warning – anyone in lawful possession of the premises may be able to give permission for a search. Make sure your roommate, babysitter, dog-sitter, housekeeper and other know that they should not let animal control into your home or on your property (i.e. backyard, garage, etc.).

How to Handle Questions:

1. Don’t answer any questions beyond identifying yourself for the officer. Anything you say to the officer in your defense cannot be used in court (hearsay). Anything you say that is harmful to you will be used in court (confessions are not considered hearsay). You cannot win, except by remaining silent.

2. Be polite but firm. Do not argue, bad-mouth, curse, threaten or try to intimidate the officer.

3. Do not lie to an officer, ever. However, it is NOT a lie to exercise your right to remain silent.

4. Keep your hands in plain sight. People have been shot by police when common objects, such as a wallet, were mistaken for a gun.

5. Do not touch the officer in any way. Do not physically resist an officer, no matter how unlawful his or her actions.

6. Don’t try to tell your side of the story, it cannot help.

7. Do not threaten the officer that you plan to file a complaint for their actions.

8. If the questioning persists, demand to speak to a lawyer first. Repeat as necessary.
Gathering the Facts:

1. Get the name and badge number of each officer involved. If he/she does not volunteer this information, ask.

2. Ask the name of the agency they represent. Different agencies have different enforcement responsibilities.

3. Ask why they are there. Request the factual basis of the complaint and the identity of the complainant.

4. If they have other people with them (Humane Society, press, etc.) get the names and organizations for all present.

5. Note the names (and addresses) of any witnesses to the encounter.

6. If you are physically injured by an officer, you should take photographs of the injuries immediately, but do not forego proper medical treatment first.

7. Write down all of the information, as well as the date and time of the incident immediately, while details are fresh in your mind.

8. If you rights are violated, file a complaint with the appropriate body.
If You Are Arrested:

1. Remain silent. Answer no questions until you have consulted with a lawyer.

2. Don’t “explain” anything. You will have time for explanations after you have talked to a lawyer.

3. Within a reasonable time they must allow you to make a phone call to get a lawyer or arrange bail. They are not allowed to listen to your phone call to your attorney, but they may “monitor” the rooms for “your protection”. Do not say anything you do not want them to overhear; save that until after you are out on bail.
Telephone Inquiries or Threats:

You may receive telephone inquiries concerning the number of dogs you own . Other questions may also be asked.

If your conversation indicates that the person is representing the county clerk’s office or allegedly representing an official body, ask the caller for:

-Full name, title and phone number
-Agency’s full name and full address
-Their supervisor’s full name and phone number
-Nature of the inquiry (what it is about)
-Why the inquiry is being made
-How your name and phone number were obtained
-Ask that all future questions from that agency be submitted in writing
Preventative Measures:

1. Always keep you kennel clean and take good care of your animals.

2. Consider a P.O. Box or other address for business cards and advertisements. Keep descriptions of your location general (i.e. Southern California, rather than the name of the city where you live). The internet can provide anonymity for initial contacts. You can even buy a “remote prefix” to get a number from a nearby community forwarded to your phone or to a voice mail. Avoid local newspaper classifieds, they are often monitored.

3. Screen any potential adopters carefully. Always be alert that they may be Animal Control or even Animal Rights working under cover.

4. Don’t allow strangers into your home until you have screened them.

5. Be fair and honest in all of your dealings, and be on good terms with your neighbors. Most animal control contacts are complaint-driven. Some complaints may arise as harassment by people with unrelated grievances against you. It may be a disgruntled dog buyer or a cranky neighbor who doesn’t like you parking in front of his house.

6. Anything about you that can be observed in “plain sight” from the street or sidewalk can become probably cause for a warrant. Even areas on your property open to visitors can be dangerous. Be aware of which areas of your home are visible from the outside and plan accordingly.

7. If you are confronted by Animal Control and turn them away, assume they will be back. Use the time available to make sure everything is clean and presentable. If you are over the limit on the number of pets, find friends who can provide temporary shelter for your dogs.

Whatever you do, stay calm and keep your wits about you.

Just say “no”, no matter what threats or promises of leniency they make.

When in doubt, say nothing and speak to a lawyer afterwards.
Permission to reprint and cross post is granted.

Preparing the Crate Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.

Wire Mesh type: Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy’s Crate Toys and Treats: Place your puppy’s favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the “Tuffy”, “Billy”, “Kong”, “Nylabone” or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.

Location of Crate Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

A Note About Crating Puppies
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

Important Reminders

1. Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog’s collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety “break away” collar.
2. Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]
3. Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:

1. The pup is too young to have much control.
2. The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
3. The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
4. The pup has worms.
5. The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
6. The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
7. The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.
8. The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)
9. The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog’s adult life.

Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright).

Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Crating Duration Guidelines